27 May Hansjörg Auer FFA of Hallucinogen Wall
Hansjörg Auer managed the first all free ascent of the big wall route Hallucinogen Wall in Black Canyon – Gunnison National Park, Colorado and established the speed record of the route, completing the ascent of the 16 pitches in 8h and 41min.
Hallucinogen Wall was opened in 17 days on 1980 by Bryan Backer, Webster, Lella and Newberr; on 2005 Jared Odgen and Ryan Nelson made the first free ascent climbing the most difficult section with a hybrid technique mixing dry tooling- using ice axes without leashes – and free climbing, wearing climbing shoes. Climbed this way the route was graded D10+.
“It is one of the most difficult ascents of my career. This ascent opens the doors to a new conception of free climbing on big walls” said Jared Odgen.
Hansjörg Auer decided to climb this magnificent line, after found it loooking at the cover of an American climbing magazine, where was described as a sensational route.
Here Auer’s report from his website: "So this spring, after having trained well, I headed to Colorado to see Black Canyon. I was not interested in climbing other lines. I was there for Hallucinogen Wall. The route was graded 5.10/A3+. Together with Ben (Lepesant) I climbed it over three days ground up. We had some good portaledge sessions, great climbing and a few exciting moments with spicy run outs which made for fun times. One easy pitch from the top, it started raining, and so, goodbye tickmarks. Then three more wet days followed, during which I tried to remember the moves.
Then the weather seemed to get better. We got an early start at five in the morning, but after 10 minutes it started snowing. What should we do? Just keep going. We went down the Cruise gully and up the route. I free climbed every pitch first go, and soon enough we were at the point where we had left our portaledge for the bivouac which we didn’t need. I sent the crux pitch first go, a really cool sideways dynamic move at the end with a pumpy lower section. After 8h 41min, 18 minutes less than the speed record of Jared Odgen and Ryan Nelson we topped out, super happy."
Grade as estimated by Hansjörg Auer: 5.13+/R
Source: Hansjorg Auer website
Photos: Cory Richards and HansJoerg Auer
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