10 Nov Russian alpinists new route On Siguniang – Updated
Russian alpinists Valery Shamalo, Vladimir Molodozhen, Denis Sushkoand and Andrey Muryshev had planned to ascend a new route on the north west face Siguniang (6,250m – Qionglai Shan Range, China’s Sichuan province) where Fowler and Ramsden established Inside Line, 1500 m ED+ that won the Piolet d’Or in 2003.
After two weeks of exhausting climbing – capsule style – they were forced to traverse into Inside Line, which they followed to the top.
"We named our route Bloody Sunset (1,150m, VI A4 90°). It has 14 pitches on rock, and then four steep ice and mixed pitches in the upper couloir to reach the snow/ice ramp, which although steep, proved to be comparatively straightforward. This route was the hardest big-wall effort of my life, and I was pleased when we were awarded first prize in the Russian Championships."
Andrey Muryshev on AAJ
source:mountain.ru – American Alpine Journal
(Updated after Andrey’s comment)