13 Mar Ice – Monte Combolo Supercouloir Integrale
On March, 5th, Matteo Perico, Stefano Pelucchi, Domenico Fenio and Lorenzo Conserva, ice-climber from Bergamo have completed one of the few full repeats of the Monte Combolo Supercouloir in the Central Alps.
The long couloir (600 V / 5) is also known as Spada del Combolo and was opened in March 1988 by Moroni, Rossi and Sertori until the end of the second iced wall, then climbed to the top by the same Sertori with Vanotti in March 1993 .
This is a very attractive line that affects the severe northern wall of the mountain, characterized by two major vertical walls followed by other shorter and less steep with a few step of mixed and by a snow couloir.
This year, as you can see on the beautiful photo report of Lorenzo Conserva, conditions are good and also the initial free standing is shorter and full-bodied than usual, as the length of it changes in relation to the amount of snow avalanche that is deposited at the base.
The route is expected to remain in good condition for at least the entire month of March. It is important to pay attention to any new snow for the high risk of avalanches.
Topo Alpine Ice
Report of Stefano Pelucchi on Gulliver website
Overall Rating: ***** / ***** stars
Ice conditions: good
type ice: plastic, “decayed” on the free-standing
It was a while that was in our thoughts and now is gone …
The first free standing is large and well formed, but in the central section is "decayed" and screws are not very safe … the second big wall of ice is really amazing! then follow five easier and very beautiful pitches on gully, with an intermediate slope snow … then mixed climbing at M5 and at the end a 300m gully leading to the ridge at a short distance of the top… a worthwhile climb if if conditions permit … but the snow was safe!
Consider well all the risk factors because the first section of the descent is on the steep slopes on south-west ….
Photo: Lorenzo Conserva
Report on on-ice