06 Dec Il senso della misura

 

Il senso della misura (The sense of proportion) is the name of a major route opened between 2008 and 2009, on the north wall of the western Presolana (Orobian Alps) by  climbers Giangi Angeloni, Daniele Calegari and Yuri Parimbelli . On the 4th July 2010, the  route was fully freed.
 
The route is 330 meters long , with maximum difficulty of 7b, which corresponds to the obligatory difficulty , which must be well managed to have any chance of success … The three climbers are climbers of high level, also very appreciated  outside their geographical area,  bringing a breath of fresh air on the limestone walls of Orobian Alps with  achievements of  high technical content.

Nel dubbio …allenarsi new route by Angeloni e Calegari – Presolana orientale
 
 
PRESOLANA OCCIDENTALE – PARETE NORD
 
Via “Il senso della misura”  2008/2009, redpoint  2010 Jul 4th.
Giang Angeloni, Daniele Calegari,Yuri Parimbelli
330 mt., diff. max. 7b, diff. obl. 7b, III, SR4
 
Gear: rope 60 mt., 1 set of  friends up to #3 camalot and 1 set of tricam.
 
Start: left of “Via del cuore”, right of  pillar near the wall. Piton and a sling
 
Descent: 1)  from "cengione Bendotti" 2) rappelling on "spigolo nord "3) from S10 two rappel in the route and rappelling on the route  “Placido” or of  “Paco”.
 
Best season: summer (2000m high)
 
 
L1 25m 6b+
L2 30m 6c+
L3 40m 7b
L4 25m 6c
L5 25m 6b+
L6 25m 6c
L7 40m 7a
L8 35m 7a+
L9 30m 6b+
L10 55m 6b