Illuminati M11 WI6+ VIDEO - Up-Climbing

Illuminati M11 WI6+ VIDEO

Greg Boswell has repeated Illuminati, Albert Leichtfried’s route in Vallunga, Dolomites.
Illuminati was repeated in 2012 by Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer on Jan 27;  in 2008 by Florian Riegler and by the party of the Slovenian Klemen Premrl and the Italian Erik Svab. In 2010, Spanish Luis Penin failed to complete the section of ice in reason of the poor condition of the same.

site Greg Boswell

A.Leichtfried and D.Tavener 2006
Difficulty: IV / 6 + / M11 +
Length: 165m
Exposure: SE
Altitude: 2000m
Approach: 1 hour
Report of the openers
1. pitch.: M 11 -. 30m, 12m overhang. Endurance, crux step towards the end of the pitch
2. pitch: M 11 +. 25m, 10m overhang. Severe, difficult  mixed climbing
3. roll: pitchM 8 -. 30m, 3m overhanging. Over the curtain of ice
4. pitch: WI 4. 30m, vertical in part. Perfect ice, easy progression
5. pitch: WI 6 +. 50m, vertical. Pillar with ice of poor quality
Access: The icefall is clearly visible from the path at the top of the valley following the valley of Yosemite Ice Fall. Reach the hump that hides the first part of the icefall
Descent: 3 equipped rappels on the right edge (see photo)
Report by Albert Leichtfried in Alpine Ice