26 Feb Interview with Andrea Cartas
Andrea Cartas, 31-year old climber from Grenada, Spain, has recently sent her first 8c, White Zombie, in the Baltzola Cave, doubling right away with a second one, Fish Eye, in Oliana, on the same day when Adam Ondra made the first ascent of La dura dura.
For her it is a success that comes after a troubled period, due to a lesion that forced her to stop climbing for almost a year. We have interviewed Cartas, twice winner of the Spanish Cup and Spanish Cahmpion 2009, to learn about her development as a climber and about her next goals.
How old are you, and when did you start climbing?
I am 31, I started at 15 and I stopped for 4 years, from 19 to 23, to study. But I resumed at 23 more motivated than ever.
Are you a professional climber? Or do you have a regular job?
I am a sport technician and I am responsible for the climbing technical preparation program of Madid. I also work as a personal trainer. I wish I could climb professionally, but I am not supported by any sponsor, so I have to work!
Tell us about your career. How many titles did you win in Spain?
I improved fast when I started climbing, I gained a grade every year, first 7b, then 7c and 7c+ at 18, right before stopping. When I resumed at 23 I started to participate in competitions and for three years I trained seriously with Eva Lopez; I progressed from 8a+ to 8b+ and I won the Spanish Cup, twice in a row, and the Spanish Championship. I also tried some international competition, but without noticeable results, I only got into semi-finals.
However, the hard training took its toll, when an epitrochleitis – an inflammation of the elbow – forced me not to climb for almost a year (2010), very painful. Fortunately I made thorough it and I started training again in 2012, only 3-4 months a year, but this time focusing on outdoor climbing and giving up competitions.
Your focus on outdoor means exclusively crag climbing, or did you also look for other stimuli?
I tried to do some bouldering, big wall, looking for new motivation and new sensations. I travelled quite a bit, China, Thailand, Norway, Greece, Morocco.. And I discovered a more healthy balance in my way of conceiving climbing. I now climb more relaxed, when and how I want, without pressure nor pain.
Tell us about White Zombie and Fish Eye, your first 8c’s…
I had tried White Zombie for two summers in a row, before sending it. It has been a mental battle because I kept falling at the last move, and I was about to lose my motivation. But in the end I won, and the victory made me strong. I cried for a long time, it was a liberation.
Fish Eye has been easier, every time I got higher and better. On some of the attempts I have been unlucky, but I was confident that I could do it.
It was an incredible day, Adam sent La dura dura, and the atmosphere was full of good vibrations.
What about your next projects?
I don’t have any hard route in mind, first I have to work and study for some months, but for sure I will find something to get motivated! I would love to do multi-pitch routes like Hotel Supramonte, improve in onsight climbing, climb some 8th grade boulders, incredible trips, wonderful routes… But above all, I want to go on climbing without injuries, content as I am.
