07 Apr Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl, trad climb of Gondo Crack, 8c
After the lucky Spanish trip, Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl quickly returned to use nuts and friends and in the famous Cippo crag in Gondo resolved Gondo Crack using gear and not bolts.
“It was bolted by A. Manini and M. Pellizzon almost 15 years ago and since then it had been an open project. As its name says, it follows an obvious crack which you can also protect with trad gear. Maybe it’s not as safe as with bolts, but for us it made more sense to climb it in this way. We called it 8c (or 5.14b R). The bolts are obviously still there, so you can choose the rules of the game you want to play. You should go and check it out: it’s really cool!”
In 2015, Larcher did this grade yet with the FA of Lapoterapia in Osso crag and in 2016 the incrdible ascent of Rhapsody, 8c/+ but “thumbs up to Barbara Zangerl for making her hardest trad climb up to date!” that yet in the past was able to realize the first female ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung at Vorarlberg or a rare ascent of Achemine, first E9 in Scotland.
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