James Pearson in Cadarese - Up-Climbing

James Pearson in Cadarese

Cadarese, located north of the town of Domodossola , in the Ossola Valley in the northwest of Italy. hosts granite ramparts suspended above the meadows with plenty of cracks of all sizes. The climbers that have made this place very known have consumed  fingers and arms to clean and bolt many nice pitches
Then, it was realized the significant legacy that this place could be for trad climbing – which today is returning of  some interest also in the Alps – and new areas have been explored,  left completely free of bolts
 In recent days, the famous British climber James Pearson accompanied by the photographer  Ricky Felderer has climbed some of the great fissures of the cliff,  bringing his  impressions on his blog : "Cadarese is a bit of an anomaly in Euro granite as the entire place is made up of splitter, after splitter, after splitter. Development began around 8 years ago, and as is usual in these parts the main sector was fully bolted. Three years ago, Riky Felderer and friends began to develop an adjacent area that became known as “The Crack Party” and since then, perfectly protectable trad routes have been established up to 8a/+.
I began the day warming up in the main sector, climbing a very fun full body experience 7a+, followed by the sectors current hardest route, the 8a+ “Once Upon a/Beslan Memorial” combination. Beslan is a wonderful route, with two distinctly different crux sections, but most importantly follows perfect hand and finger cracks for most of its length – Time to bring out the friends! (..)
Up next was Mustang, the route from the above pictures, and a route I had been drooling over since Riky shared with me a picture from the year before. After an easy hand crack for 10m, one finds themselves at a brief rest point, with a tiny finger lie-back crack the only way to the belay, 12 meters above. The climbing begins with a technical, delicate sequence, and finishes with a burly, pumpy sprint, with the transition between the two extremes bringing the crux.Unfortunately, the crack was not entirely dry, and after a careless foot swap the damp crack spat me off on my onsight attempt.
After another slip, I worked out the secret of staying on the rock. By keeping my hands and feet close together I could apply even pressure directly to the rock, no twisting or extending made for very powerful climbing, but atleast I could stay on the wall. Placing protection was difficult due to the small size of the crack and the powerful body positions. Small friends have small lobes, which means a small margin for error when placing them – it doesn’t take much change in the rock for one of the lobes to miss its placement. To be able to confidently commit to the climbing, you need to invest a lot of energy in placing the gear. Its a bit of a catch 22 situation, but ho-hum, it all adds to the fun, and after a big fight I made it to the top. One of the best!"
Source: James Pearson blog
Ph:  Ricky Felderer

Topo Ossola and Valsesia