21 Jul INTERVIEW: Jessica Meiris
In June, Jessica Jes Meiris climbed the Nose alone spending an extraordinary time: 27 hours. The previous one was five days so we can say that Jes destroyed it! The secret of this ascent was using not a common big wall style but something similar to Alpine Style, very light and fast. We contacted Jes to have some impressions about her ascent and how to prepare for a similar job.
Begin from your recent record on Nose: you destroyed the previous! How much time you dedicated yourseft for preparation and mentally? This isn’t your first speed record…
I came up with the idea about a year ago, and spent the better part of last winter training and working with the solo system. I was familiar enough with training from previous records, but rope soloing was relatively new. In Yosemite, I spent about a month there rehearsing the route- both with partners and without. I knew early on that I was physically ready, but it took some convincing to and additional prep to be ready mentally.
Did you think that it was possible to improve so much te previous record?
Yes, I knew it was possible and was surprised other strong women out there- much stronger than me- hadn’t jumped on it. I wasn’t interested in hauling a bag, so for me it was in-a-day or don’t go at all. If I was successful, I knew I would break the record, but was interested in the objective anyway.
What is the most important aspect for a speed record?
I’m not sure what you mean. The way I approach speed records is to make sure my motivations are in the right place- I don’t do it for fame or recognition, I do it to push my own limits and make a difference in the lives of others- leading by example, inspiration, and usually some kind of fundraiser.
In general, how do you prepare a speed record? What are the greatest dangers?
Physical preparation is easy- train hard and keep the goals in mind always. Mental preparation is more difficult- I pulled a lot of energy and support from friends and family who often believed in me more than I believed in myself! For dangers, I’m not a big risk taker. It’s possible to get this record down to half a day. I’m slower than that because I play it safe. The biggest danger is complacency, over confidence, and a disrespect of nature.
In Italy we haven’t a very important culture of speed (we have not very important big wall). How you fell the speed question in USA?
The Nose on El Cap is by far the most popular big wall climb in the world, and the most widely recognized for speed climbing. Perhaps it is our accessible big walls that make speed climbing a bigger pursuit in the USA, I’m not sure… probably some cultural differences as well.
Colorando and then? I read that your work is focused in Colorado and almost in USA. Don’t you have in mind a particular region to visit? Whit your level on bigwall, the Patagonia for example can be a great challenge or not? There women don’t go often.
I have many places on my list to visit, but first I have to put my obsession with El Capitan to rest. I’m interested in traveling to Erope, Thailand, New Zealand, South America… Patagonia perhaps but it’s not high on the list. We shall see! It would be fun to apply big wall speed tactics in other places.
I have a problem on your site: I’m i difficult if to visit Guiding section or Modeling (I’m kidding…) but it seems you have two life or not?!?
I do, in a way- during the summer months I work full time as a rock climbing guide. During the winter (off season) I coach a competitive climbing team indoors, and guide on the weekends. I also supplement my income with modeling, and have found that I really enjoy time in front of the camera and the artists easel.
You are one of the most important female climber but whit these two interests, you give importance to appearance naturally but how is important the aspect in general?
First of all, I am hardly one of the most important female climbers- there are many out there who are stronger and more capable that I am. I just happen to be obsessed with The Nose and have the time, courage and motivation to dedicate myself to objectives like this. Appearance in my opinion is not that important- what counts is who you are inside, as a human being, and how you carry yourself in the world. What are you contributing? How can you positively impact each person you come in contact with?
