04 Jun So I did it
Jonathan Siegrist responded to our mail to have some informations about his ascent of Biographie and his future projects. Whit the usual courtesy, Jonathan spoke about this new adverture that represent for him the achievement of a new difficult level.
"It’s a absolutely beautiful route, at my favorite crag in the world.
Well for this year I was really motivated to climb into the next grade. I had done a handful of 9a’s before but I really wanted a challenge and something hard for me that would require me to train and improve my climbing. Also, my main motivation is to develop routes in the US, and I would really like to push the level there for sport climbing. I thought it would only make sense that first I climb a solid 9a+ before I try to bolt my own. Biographie was the perfect challenge. I trained through the winter with this project in mind and knowing how stunning and incredible the route was made it that much easier to stay motivated. One of the best routes in the world, no doubt.
I arrived in late April and have been trying it ever since. About 5 weeks of effort, although the last 2 weeks I was resting and exploring Southern France a lot because my skin was in really poor shape.
The hardest climbing is the first 4 moves – the opening boulder problem broke in 2010. But the hardest to climb when you are tired is without question the upper boulder problem. It’s very demanding, especially after doing so much hard climbing already just to get there.
Yes, I worked mostly on my power, because for me stamina has always been my strongest style, but my power was always low. I trained my strength and power through the winter to help for the bottom boulder and for the long moves throughout the route.
Now I am hoping to do this amazing 8c+/9a on the Berlin Sector called Lulu! It’s really inspiring to me, I love the style (bad holds and very controlled climbing).
And then afterwards I will move on to climb and explore Switzerland – I have a very Swiss name (Siegrist) but I’ve never been there!"
