01 Oct The hot summer of Alex Huber
This summer Alexander Huber laid siege to the Tyrolean and French Alps opening two 5.14a multipitch routes, Sansara and Feuertaufe, and a free soloing the Swiss Route (5.10c, 400m) on the Grand Capucin.
Having opened Sansara in spring of this year, Huber returned to free the route in June. Sansara is a six-pitch sport climb characterized by three roofs. The most difficult feature is the first roof, 8 meters long and reaching difficulties of 5.14a, though the third roof (6 meters) includes a notable splitter finger crack. Huber redpointed Sansara on June 25.
A month later Huber, with Guido Unterwurzacher, redpointed Feuertaufe, a line on the south face of the Sonnwand that the two had opened the previous summer. Pitch 2 is rated 5.14a, though Huber says the greatest challenge is not physical, but mental: "On the crux you climb with the bolt more than 4 meters below the feet, and so a failure results in a fall of more than 12 meters."
And five days after his Feuertaufe redpoint, Huber made a successful summit of the 3838m Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc range, free soloingh the Swiss Route.