"Polvere" 8b+/c FFA - Up-Climbing

“Polvere” 8b+/c FFA

 
Luca "Canon" Zardini succeeded last Friday – Sept. 24th – on the FFA of “Polvere” (Dust), a route bolted  by Bruno Menardi "Menego" in the early ’90s  at Crepe d’Oucera, a historic cliff near Cortina d ‘Ampezzo – Dolomites, with over 100 routes. 
 
The name comes from the fact that here you have to climb on a vertical wall of 15 meters from which emerge only microscopic crimps that are  the only available holds of the route.
30 moves of continuity, where Canon suggests grade 8b +/c.
 
Here is his report:
"I started to fix the route in August , at the  beginning I had to replace some bolts and the chain worn by time and clean up parts of the rock is not very reliable. Then I focused on solving some of the moves, really very difficult and technical in the middle, including a special center section already  tried just after the route was bolted in 1991, but that seemed unrealistic at that time…. Bravo Bruno for having seen so far in those years … "
Source and photos: blog  Luca “Canon” Zardini 

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