27 Sep “Polvere” 8b+/c FFA
Luca "Canon" Zardini succeeded last Friday – Sept. 24th – on the FFA of “Polvere” (Dust), a route bolted by Bruno Menardi "Menego" in the early ’90s at Crepe d’Oucera, a historic cliff near Cortina d ‘Ampezzo – Dolomites, with over 100 routes.
The name comes from the fact that here you have to climb on a vertical wall of 15 meters from which emerge only microscopic crimps that are the only available holds of the route.
30 moves of continuity, where Canon suggests grade 8b +/c.
Here is his report:
"I started to fix the route in August , at the beginning I had to replace some bolts and the chain worn by time and clean up parts of the rock is not very reliable. Then I focused on solving some of the moves, really very difficult and technical in the middle, including a special center section already tried just after the route was bolted in 1991, but that seemed unrealistic at that time…. Bravo Bruno for having seen so far in those years … "
Source and photos: blog Luca “Canon” Zardini