Luigi Billoro Active Discharge 8b+ - Up-Climbing

Luigi Billoro Active Discharge 8b+

 Luigi Billoro sent Active Discharge, 8b+, a route of 50 meters which runs at the right of the big cave between the wall Osp and Misja Pec.
Luigi belayed his friend Andrea Polo who first climbed the route and, when it was his turn, realized the redpoint.

How to define it, flash or onsight? Luigi has no doubts: "ethics is not respected … I belayed Polo when climbing the pitch. In my heart I know that it was onsight because I turned my back to the wall, and I did not really understand which were the holds and from a certain point it is hard to see the mate as becomes small, but this is my personal feeling and consideration and this is not "the ethical of the onsight" …

A few days ago Caroline Ciavaldini had the same “question” few days ago, when she sent Xiketeta just after she belayed her partner James Pearson on the same pitch, “sure, I belayed James but seen from below is quite a different thing! However, onsight or flash, the decision to you, I’m happy with the result”
 
In any case, that of Luigi is an excellent result, with few precedents among the Italian climber. In January Jacopo Larcher flashed Borroka Kalea, also 8b+
 
Here is the report of Luigi
"It was a long time that Andrea Polo was telling me about this cave" wedged" between Osp and  Misja Pec … and urged me to go climbing there ….”.. this is your style of climbing, " he said.
Finally, after a winter in which the outdoor climbing , despite the "dry", was very rare, I can take a day to visit this new (for me) site in Slovenia.

Saturday, March 31, I am of course with Andrea in Palmanova, and we head to Osp
The cave is a big grotto inserted at the base of the wall of Osp where there are the multi-pitch routes.

After a short and intense warm-up, Andrea goes to the classic Bikta e stalactiti 8b, which runs right in the middle of the cave, 50 very long meters of moves between colonnettes and concretions with a section very intense after the 6th bolt …
He stops to reconsider some of the moves … and is on the route for almost 40 minutes … to the delight of my neck…
However, the route seems very nice, so I decided to start also, even if my warm up did not seem complete.

With the advices of Andrea, I go trough the hard section and after 30 min of intense fighting, on this type of climbing which I call "upside down world" I send it… flash! Not bad for this 44 years old man…
In the next round Polo also concludes his fight and sends the route and immediately suggests me to try a pitch he bolted and freed on the left of the cave which is called Working class heroe, grade 8b / b +

I try but after 5 bolts … there’s a surprise a hold is broken … luckily I find another way … a little ‘more intense and rough “ but the route is very nice and always long and perhaps with this trick is the grade is higher.. who knows? The struggle is very intense, but at the end is the Newton and his the law of gravity to win.. well, next time!
 
We return the following Saturday, again with Andrea Polo and after the usual warm up, Andrea starts testing the pitch called Active Discharge running to the right of the cave, whose first 25 m can settle to 8a and the next 25 raise the grade to 8b+
I put myself under the embankment that characterizes the right section to belay Andrea, turned with my back to safe my neck (given my age), and to look at "the world upside down" …
The guy is doing so well and finish after a 45 min walk in between the barrels and stalactites that characterize the vault.
 
Now it’s up to me … I try ..  I did not understand anything from my revolved perspective! I start and after 40 minutes of struggle, especially in the middle section very physical and "tough", I find myself stunned at the end . Chain and liberating scream …
Remains to be seen … in fact there is nothing to understand … ethics was not respected …… I belayed Andrea when climbing the pitch.    In my heart I know that it was onsight because I turned my back to the wall, and I did not really understand which were the holds and from a certain point it is hard to see the mate as becomes small, but this is my personal feeling and consideration and this is not "the ethical of the onsight" …
 I want to emphasize and be clear on that.
 
 I am happy and satisfied with my own ascent as I felt and the feelings that gave me … feelings that had long been in the drawer of memories … which is already quite full in reason of my “early” age I invite all fans of this style to go climbing in the cave because it’s fun.
I thank everyone here who supported me and made savor the serenity of a day of outdoor climbing and especially Andrea for introducing me to "rediscover" my climbing … "
 


news Luigi Billoro in Oliana
Source and photos: Luigi Billoro

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