01 Dec Multipitch 7c+ in Presolana (Central Alps)

 
Fine achievements of the very active climbers from Bergamo Daniele Calegari and Giangi Angeloni on Antifupù, an interesting vertical wall of limestone located on the north side of Eastern Presolana, in the heart of the Alps Orobie.
 
The duo, who had previously managed the FA od Dilettanti allo sbaraglio, are back in the summer of 2010 and have completed another attractive line on the same wall : Nel Dubbio… allenarsi “if in doubt … keep training”. The itinerary is developed on the left of Dilettanti.. is 220 meters long, with a maximum difficulty of 7c+, 7a+ obligatory, spaced bolts and need for quick protections in several points.
 
Here the words of Giangi Angeloni:
 
"If “Dilettanti “ was the debut," Nel dubbio…allenarsi!”. "was an attempt to push a harder line with drill and cliff,   trying to leave clean the most significant passages.
 
We actually clashed with very high barriers for us, especially on the last pitch strongly characterized by a steep rock , good but still damp and dirty and with the prospect of bad falls on the ledge below.
 
In light of these factors and after a number of considerations we decided to abstain for once from our "rule" by placing the second fix with the help of a “stirrup”.  After a cleaning job and a few attempts, to climb it   free (though the protections already in place) was still a great satisfaction that this has mitigated the defect and gave us proof that the chosen all in all it was valid.
 
The name is a tribute to our friend Daniele Natali, nice admirer of our climb: his "smash" seemed us  appropriate having regard to the physical nature of many passages on this road! "

Source: Maurizio Panseri/UpClimbing
Photo: Daniele Calegari e Giangi Angeloni