New icefall climbed in Ticino (CH) - Up-Climbing

New icefall climbed in Ticino (CH)

 
Floriano Martinaglia has carried out the first ascent of a beautiful and remote icefall on Monte Derbianco’s North wall,  in Val Riviera -Ticino (CH).
Per aspera ad astra ("To the stars through difficulties), maybe in reason of long and wild approach, is 100 m long with difficulties  III/5.
 Floriano said: " the  crux of the not easy icefall is the third pitch, but one can well protect himself. Useful screws 10/13 cm"
 
Last February, on the same wall Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli managed the first ascent of La Piovra 230 m WI6- M7R A1
 
 
From highway Chiasso-Gottard exit Bellinzona direction Prosito. The icefall can be seen from the route left of "Piovra" .
Park near the church and follow the path to Mairengo-Monte Derbianco, can be useful a map of the area. Once reached Derbianco, ascend roughly 100 meters  in the wood and as soon as possible traverse to South to the big vallon where the icefalls are located. (3 hours )
First pitch: WI5-, second pitch WI5-. third pitch 3 WI5, exit on chandeliered ice. Descent  on Abalakov.
 
 
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Source: Floriano Martinaglia – Up-climbing.com

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