New Icefall in Valtournenche (Aosta Valley - Italy) - Up-Climbing

New Icefall in Valtournenche (Aosta Valley – Italy)

 
On December 19th, Matteo Giglio, Rémy Maquignaz and Roberto Ferraris have completed the (likely) first ascent of a beautiful free-standing in Valtournenche, that called SuperMaen. 
 
The icefall is in the upper part of the canal that houses the classical Icefall of Maen, and falls by a large rocky roof in a beautiful grove of larch trees. The same ice-climbers also scaled Il Mago, a fun single pitch right of that candle, that trends obliquely to the left along a rocky dihedral.
 
On January 25th, Roberto Ferraris and François Cazzanelli have also climbed Il vecchio e il Lago, not far from the other two lines (two 35-meters pitches)
The routes in question does not appear to have suffered from the heat of the past few weeks and are still in excellent condition. 
 
SuperMaen
30m
WI 4 + 
 
Il Mago
30m
WI 4 – some mixed climbing  steps at the beginning (useful  a couple of pitons and a cam medium/small) 
 
Il Vecchio e il Lago 
70m
Difficulty: WI 4 
  
  
 Descent: rappel from a tree (nothing in place – the rope is recovered easily)
 
Access:
SuperMaen is the free-standing  is visible from the road at the hairpin before Valtournanche. (Val d’Aosta – route to Cervinia)
 
1 – go along the icefall of Maen (starts behind the houses of the village close to the Moulin village and before Valtournanche) and continue to its end – long enough – in the channel until you see on the left (right bank) the wall with a free-standing
 
2 – at the entrance  of the village of Valtournenche turn left in a downhill road (direction Valmartin Barmasse) and follow it to the church of the village Valmartin, where you park. 30 meters further starts the trail for Cignana. Follow it until you pass the construction of hydroelectric installations of Promeron and, just before the houses of  Falegnon deflect to the left on lawns, then downhill to the valley until you see in  the opposite side the free-standing  SuperMaen. (1.30 hours)
 
For Il Vecchio e il Lago, just before the houses of  Falegnon godown on lawns- on the left bank – up to a split where starts the icefall. 60m Rappell from a tree and reach  the start .
 
 

Source: Up-climbing
Blog Matteo Giglio


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