First ascent on SW spur of Good Neighbor Peak - Up-Climbing

First ascent on SW spur of Good Neighbor Peak

 
Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates  recently made the first ascent of the South West Spur of Good Neighbor Peak (4,850m), Mt Vancouver’s South Summit, at the border between Alaska and Yukon.
 
The pair had originally planned to attempt the nearby West Ridge of Mt Hubbard but they discovered it had already been climbed so thanks to the area experienced Jack Tackle they found an alternative line on Mount Vancouver.
 
After 5 days and 2400 meters  of climbing, they reached the summit in perfect weather. Sections of the route had involved Scottish V ice and Scottish 6 mixed, and an overall grade of ED was thought appropriate.
 
For Yates and Schweizer this is second major success in the region. In 2005 they climbed a new route on the 1,800m West Face of Alverstone (4,439m), making a complex and committing descent to the north.
 
Simon Yates is a successful british alpinist; he  first became known as “the man who cut the rope” holding Joe Simpson during a disastrous descent from Peru’s Siula Grande in 1985, a story immortalised in the BAFTA award winning film ‘Touching the Void’.
 
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source:theBMC.co.uk
 

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