28 Jun New trad route in Sardinia
Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, helped by Luca Giupponi on the second day of climbing, have made the first ascent of a new route on the north face of Punta Cusidore in the Supramonte (Sardinia). Unlike the nearby "Umbras", a hard multipitch bolted route, Camaleontica was climbed in perfect trad style, placing only 3 pegs on the whole route. The route was named "Camaleontica", “Chameleon”, to emphasise the ability to change climbing styles at will.
In fact, unlike "Umbras", "Camaleontica" offers splendid crack climbing where it would have been inappropriate to use bolts, even though the climbing is anything but easy. The first day, June 14, Rolando and Maurizio started up the wall. After two 6b pitches, the first of which was very dirty, the splendid third pitch fell to Rolando. For 10 metres this followed a previous 1996 Gianluca Piras and Luigi Scema attempt which climbed up from the left.
Maurizio climbed on-sight the very smooth following pitch, then it was Rolando’s turn again, though he had to rest to place a peg. Belay at the foot of a frightening bell-bottom crack/corner and ab off. On June 21 the pair were back again, This time accompanied by the strong Luca Giupponi, who wanted to try trad climbing.
After having reclimbed all the route free, alternating leads, Maurizio tackled the bell-bottomed crack, which probably would turn out to be the crux of the route. After a memorable struggle, Maurizio managed to climb on-sight this splendid pitch. Then it was Rolando’s turn to finish the route, with an equally splendid cracked corner, not at all easy.
Showing great maturity and awareness of ethics, Gianluca Piras had consented to the bolts from his attempt being removed where the two routes ran together for 10 or so metres. If all the people who open routes had this sort of awareness and far-sightedness, many discussions would be avoided!
Camaleontica finishes exactly at the last stance of Umbras, which you can use for abbing off. The route is 290 metres. Description and topo soon on
Source: Maurizio Oviglia – up-climbing – pietradiluna.com