02 Sep New trad route in Wyoming
Nearly 20 years after Steve Petro forged the all-trad Fiddler on the Roof (5.13d) in Freemont Canyon, Wyoming, Justin Edl established Home on the Range (5.14-), a contender for Wyoming’s most desperate trad climb.
Edl hails from Laramie, Wyoming, and has established a handful of 5.13 offwidths around Vedauwoo, the location of Home on the Range.
The climb is a flared splitter on a slightly overhanging wall. Edl placed all the gear on lead and relates the difficulty to pumpy V11.
"The grade on this is nothing but a proposition," he states on mountainproject.com, "and it is meant to be honest when compared to other crack climbs around the U.S. … Repeats will help settle the grade, up or down."
Matt Segal-who knows a thing or two about 5.14 trad-briefly worked this line, suggesting solid 5.14
source : rockandice.com