02 Mar New Icefalls in Orobian Alps

 
Yuri Parimbelli, very active mountain guide from Bergamo, in January has done the first ascent of two interesting new lines of ice and mixed, on the southern Orobian Alps.

Becca di Valmora (Valcanale)
 
Bella di notte + I tre porcellini

III / 5 M8 90m 80m + + traverse on snow
First section Alebardi Michele and Co, the second section – Ennio Spiranelli, Maurizio Panseri, Yuri Parimbelli

Approach: from Bergam follow the State Road of Val Seriana to Valcanale, from the village  follow the old ski tracks in direction Corna Piana and  at the plateau with a cabin ( icefalls can be seen on the left of the Occhio Malefico icefall) turn left and go up towards the rocky ramparts where the iced lines are clearly visible. An hour and a half, recommended skis.
L1: 40m 4
L2: 50m 3
L3: 40m 4 M8
L4: 40m 5 
  
Carona
 
Cascata del Perverso
 
III/4 M6/7 80m
Tito Arosio, Marco Tiraboschi, Yuri Parimbelli

Approach: from Bergamo follow the Val Brambana main route and reach Carona; reach the start of Cascata del traverso in Carona, continue going up the channel for 50 meters, short sections of easy climbing, to the base of the evident icefalls
L1: 40m 4 M6 / 7
L2: 40m 4
Rappelling on tree.
 
Topo

"Two new climbs, or nearly so, proposed as alternatives   to spend a fun day .Both have been opened from below with quick protections, the grades of mixed are indicative (do not know much …)
For a repetition is necessary to bring, in addition to normal icefall gear, pitons, hammer, small and medium-sized cams, we left a a piton in Valmora the first difficult step". 
  
Photogalley full-on www.vertical orme.
more news on Yuri Parimbelli: here and here
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