Ondra: new 9b in Arco - Up-Climbing

Ondra: new 9b in Arco

Adam Ondra frees Bomba, 9b.

Czech by birth but now Italian by adoption, Adam Ondra really spends a lot of time on the crags of the Bel Paese, repeating very hard pitches and helping to free as many. Lately we had seen him busy in Arco, together with the transplanted Turin-born Stefano Ghisolfi, at work on some extreme projects. Contrary to many strong climbers who limit themselves to climbing, Stefano and Adam bolt new routes, looking for motivation in new projects. On his social networks Adam writes:

Last day of the trip to Arco, I was pretty sure this would be the only “working” day on my project, not the sending day. To get everything dialed, knowing exactly what to do for my next trip within 2 weeks. I felt a little tired from the previous active rest-day (bolting-day), and that is not the best situation for sending the project that was about to become 9b+.

Coming to the crag, I could feel the conditions were just perfect. I felt calm but really eager to climb. My goal was to climb the project from one point halfway up to the top, eliminating the first part. I did not even bring the two kneepads which are necessary for the whole route. I brought only one kneepad for the upper kneebar. Fortunately, I borrowed another one from the local, Max. On my first try, trying only the last section, I fell from the last move, but I felt super good. Why not try from the ground. The next go was perfect until I fell due to being not precise enough just below the crux move. I rested for 30 minutes and then some of the most epic moments of my climbing life happened

After bolting everyone the previous day, Ondra then freed Bomba, a new extreme pitch that increases the number of 9b on the Italian peninsula. For those who love numbers, Bomba is the 25th route “9b or harder” climbed by Adam.

From Adam Ondra’s IG page

Alessandro Palma

 

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