Ondra comments on Biographie - Up-Climbing

Ondra comments on Biographie

"It was maybe too bold, probably I should have waited more to get more chance to flash." This is what Adam replied when asked on his Friday attempt on Realization. "I gave it two tries more, but frustratingly didn’t manage to send and then we had to leave back home."
The Czech managed to impress all the present with his flash of the lower part of the route, itself deemed to be a 8c+; Ondra fell just a few holds from the realization of an unprecedented feat.
He didn’t leave Ceuse without some satisfaction, anyway. On Tuesday 5th, he made the first ascent of Jungle Boogie. "It is power endurance route were it is required to make 20 moves from the third bolt to the lip of the overhang without absolutely any rest at all, constantly doing long reaches on tiny crimpy holds. The final top out in the vertical wall isn’t more than 7b+. I did it on my third day of trying, 7 tries in total. The route fits my style very well, but I fell off two times at the lip of the overhang. I hadn’t thought that it would be possible to fall so high and I hadn’t worked out the moves properly; as I got there fully pumped, the fall was inevitable."
A final comment on the grade? " I do think it is comparable to the other 9a+ in Biographie and its grade 9a+ is appropriate. It is great addition to the Biographie sector, where there is still potential for even higher end routes."
Elena Corriero
 

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