05 Oct New routes in Valle dell’Orco (Gran Paradiso)
Maurizio Oviglia – climber and author of climbing guidebooks – established on summer 2009 new interesting routes on the beautiful granite of the well known Valle dell’Orco (Gran Paradiso – Italia).
The results of his work are aesthetical and attracting lines in trad style as at Torre Aimonin or Parete dell’Acqua Chiara, or routes bolts/trad protections as on Parete delle Ombre.
Maurizio is the author of the reference guide of this area, Rock Paradise : a brand new edition of this book will be soon released.
Source: up-climbing pietradiluna.com
ms
Torre di Aimonin
Cani&Porci – 100 m – 6c – Maurizio Oviglia with Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti
first ascended onsight – free, in clean climbing
Cani&Gatti – 60 m – 6c+/A0 – Maurizio Oviglia with Paolo Seimandi
first pitch clean climbing, 6c+. Second pitch to be freed probably 8a
Parete dell’Acqua Chiara
Niente di nuovo sul fronte occidentale – 125 m – 6c – Maurizio Oviglia with Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti
3 bolts. A very nice crack of 25 meters
Parete del Disertore
L’antico maestro…Yodaparo – 30 m – 6a – Maurizio Oviglia with Giampaolo Mocci
trad one pitch – first climbed onsight
Siamo mica qui per divertirci! – 30 m – 6c – Maurizio Oviglia con Giampaolo Mocci
trad one pitch
Fessura del Tramonto
Eva Green – 35 m – 7a – Maurizio Oviglia
one pitch (bolts and quick protections)
L’Alba di domani – 35 m – 6b – Paolo Seimandi
crack
Parete delle Ombre
J’arrive! – 165 m – 7a+ – Maurizio Oviglia with Giampaolo Mocci
3 bolts per pitch
Sergent
Mi ritiro! – 30 m – 6b – Maurizio Oviglia with Giampaolo Mocci and Valerio Bertoglio
trad one pitch – onsight
Massi sotto il Caporal
Sensa Cugnisiùn – 10 m – 6b/c – Maurizio Oviglia with Paolo Seimandi and Damiano Ceresa
trad one pitch on thin crack
Avantgarde – 25 m – 6b+
spectacular trad – top rope on 1986 – redpointed
La stanza dei bottoni – 25 m – 7a
one pitch – bolts
Mastro Ceresa – 15 m – 7a
one pitch – bolts
La riserva indiana – 50 m –
one pitch to free
