12 Aug Paige Claassen
Paige Claassen is the perfect embodiment of professionalism. Concrete, effective, precise and attentive; an example of how to be a strong climber and a great communicator. But she is also a heart person, which decided, with the help of sponsors, to start the Lead Now Tour project, a tour around the world to collect funds for charity. An intelligent and concrete way to compound work and passion.
Tell me something about your project Lead Now: when is it started and why? How many countries have you visited?
Our Lead Now Tour began in June of 2013. We visited South Africa, Russia, Italy, Japan, China, India, Turkey, Ecuador, and Chile. We just returned home at the end of March, so our tour is now over. Jon and I designed Lead Now because we wanted to use climbing as a way to help other people. I wanted to see if I could climb a 5.14 (8b+ or harder) every month to raise money for charities, and that is how the idea started. Marmot liked our idea, and made it possible for us to travel for 9 months and raise money for women and children around the world in need.
The country that has surprised you? Why?
Russia was very surprising because I didn’t know very much about it before. It is a very beautiful country and the people are overwhelmingly kind. Ecuador was also surprising because I expected it to be hot and tropical, which typically means poor rock quality. Instead, Ecuador is a very diverse country. You can climb at 4,000 meters on long, consistent routes, and there is so much more rock to be developed!
On the basis of what you have made the list of countries to visit?
We wanted to visit a very diverse range of countries with unique cultures. We also wanted to choose climbing locations that aren’t talked about as often. We tried to choose locations that people didn’t know as much about, but that also seemed to have high quality rock in a unique environment.
What is the reaction of people when you arrive?
Everywhere we went, people were so kind and welcoming. Climbers are always enthusiastic to share their favorite climbing spots, so it’s fun to get the local tour. I think that is something special about areas with smaller climbing communities, is that people are eager to share their local crags. Where I’m from in Colorado, there are so many climbers that people like to keep areas secret. But it was fun to learn about the local culture, food, and climbing from local climbers and residents.
When you’re in a specific place, how do you choose your routes? What criteria do you have?
When I arrive to a new area, I spend a few days exploring different routes. I look for routes that aren’t climbed as frequently, or open projects. Mostly, I try to choose lines that look beautiful and inspire me. I like technical routes that require significant mental devotion.
The most difficult and the best one till now?
The route I tried in Russia was definitely the hardest route I tried on the trip. It was an 8c+ called Catharsis and I fell off the very top twice before we had to leave. It was hard to leave behind a route that I was so close on, but that is the nature of our trip. Art Attack was also one of the greatest challenges, because the conditions were so bad all month – it was very humid and rainy, which made granite slab climbing really difficult. I finally finished it on the second to last day of our trip, which was a huge relief.
Why in Italy did you decide to try Art Attack? What do you thing about this route?
I was searching for a difficult route in the Val Masino area. I completed Solitary Men (8b/8b+) pretty quickly and wanted another challenge. I love technical climbing, and I find it very interesting to climb slabs because very few people enjoy slab climbing. I tried Art Attack and couldn’t figure out the moves at the top, but I wanted to keep trying. Slowly it just started coming together. It took a lot of mental devotion because the crux is the last 4 bolts of the route. The most difficult move for me was a long “iron cross” move that required nearly my full arm length. The feet are very bad in this section, which is frustrating but also makes it exciting when you discover the moves are possible!
Do you think to return in Italy soon?
There are so many places I visited on this trip that I would like to visit again. Italy is a beautiful country and I met many new friends there, I would be happy to return!
What does it mean for you to be a professional climber?
Being a professional climber is a very loose term. Climbing is still such a small sport, and the opportunities for climbers to support themselves are sometimes difficult to find. Right now, my sponsors allow me to travel and climb, and I’m also able to use my University marketing degree each day, which I find really fun. It’s important as climbers of all levels to be good stewards of the sport – to respect our crags, clean up after ourselves, and set a positive example for future generations.
– Paige and UpClimbing invite you to visit www.crowdrise.com/LeadNowTour where you can have info about the project Lead Now and make a donation, thanks.
Thanks to CAMP for collaboration.
Interview by Stefano Michelin
