21 Jul Paraclimbing: some views and opinions
“When the Organising Committee of Arco World Championship 2011 made the proposal to include Paraclimbing in the program of the World Championship we accepted enthusiastically” – remembers IFSC Vice-President Alexander Piratinskiy and President of the IFSC Paraclimbing Commission. “This was an important achievement for the paraclimbing movement, which developed in this last years.”
The 48 paraclimbers competed in male and female categories depending on their disability. Six categories were defined: Total blind and reduced vision (vision less than 50% and vision less 5% – 20 % ), amputee – leg, amputee – arm, physical disability (paralysis or other forms, both arthritis and neurological). Athletes with physical disabilities – not amputees –competed in a single category with a correction factor on the basis of the disability.
“The main difficulties, while preparing the first IFSC paraclimbing rules, were certainly related to the definition of the various levels of disability and the identification of the different categories” said Piratinsky commenting the work of the IFSC paraclimbing commission. "A great help was provided by CIP Italian Paralympic Committee."
"This is the first time that a structured work was ever done in the definition of the rules and criteria" – said Francesco Coscia director of the IFSC and FASI Medical Commission. "Medical examinations for classifying the disability of athletes have been introduced for the first time in this competition and levels of disability were specifically defined according to the basic climbing moves"
Italian, Russian and Japanese national federations are among the most active in the promotion and development of sport paraclimbing. The first IFSC Paraclimbing Cup was organised in 2008 in Moscow, while an international cup with stages in Russia, Japan and Italy (Daone, Trentino) was held in both 2009 and 2010.
The paraclimber athletes who arrived here in Arco came from different countries including Russia, Spain, France, Kazakhstan, Hungary, Belarus, China and Italy.
“Our challenge for next years is to extend the number of recognized national paraclimbing committees around the five continents and increase the number of participants of the next future events.”
Speed – Uomini
Amputee Arm Pd: 1) Mikhail Saparov (RUS) 43.80;
Amputee Both Leg Pd: 1) Boyu Xia (CHN) 55.26;
Amputee Leg Pd: 1) Urko Carmona Barandiaran (ESP) 25.49; 2) Günther Grausam (GER) 7.18; 3) Oliviero Bellinzani (ITA) 41.18;
Arthritis and Neurological Pd: 1)András Szijártó (HUN) 12.52; 2) Matteo Alberghini (ITA) 19.03; 3) Philippe Ribière (FRA) 21.22; 4) MatteoMasento (ITA) 26.80; 5) Vladzimir Virt (BLR) 28.39; 6) Maurizio Marsigli (ITA) 28.39; 7) Jose Miguel Delgado Barroso (ESP) 30.86; 8) Renzo Lancianese (ITA) 42.04; 9) Sebastian Richter (GER) 43.44; 10) Sergey Pynka (KAZ) 73.46;
Visual Impairment B1: 1) Matteo Stefani (ITA) 25.79; 2) Manuel Cepero Gutierrez (ESP) 42.81; 3) Roman Kostakiov (RUS) 44.01; 4) Oscar Domínguez Negreira (ESP) 45.80; 5) Alessandro Causin (ITA) 79.01;
Visual Impairment B2: 1) Simone Salvagnin (ITA) 32.64;
Speed – Donne
Amputee Arm Pd: 1) Paula De La Calle Pizarro (ESP) 29,05
Visual Impairment B1: 1) Silvia Parente (ITA) 64.33; 2) RAKHMANKNLOVA Dilyara (RUS) 67.93
Visual Impairment B2: 1) Tatiana Panova (RUS) 58.72
Arthritis and Neurological Pd: 1) Valentyna Kurshakova (UKR) 52.48
Lead – Uomini
Amputee Arm Pd: 1) Mikhail Saparov (RUS) 1.00
Amputee Both Leg Pd: 1) Boyu Xia (CHN) 1.00
Amputee Leg Pd: 1) Mineo Ono (JPN) 2.00; 2) Urko Carmona Barandiaran (ESP) 2.00; 3) Alexander Biermann (GER) 2.00; 4) Günther Grausam (GER) 4.00; 5) Oliviero Bellinzani (ITA) 5.00
Complete Neurologic Leg Disability PD: 1) Sebastian Richter (GER) 1.00
Arthritis and Neurological Pd: 1) András Szijártó (HUN) 0,97; 2) Matteo Masento (ITA) 1,59; 3) Alessio Cornamusini (ITA) 2,94; 4) Jose Miguel Delgado Barroso (ESP) 3,43; 5) Philippe Ribière (FRA) 4,71; 6) Vladzimir Virt (BLR) 4,87; 7) Maurizio Marsigli (ITA) 5,20; 8) Matteo Alberghini (ITA) 5,38; 9) Renzo Lancianese (ITA) 8,01; 10) Sergey Pynka (KAZ) 9,50
Visual Impairment B1: 1) Matteo Stefani (ITA) 1.87; 2) Manuel Cepero Gutierrez (ESP) 2.65; 3) Roman Kostakiov (RUS) 3.24; 4) Kenji Iwamoto (JPN) 3.74; 5) Noriaki Komatsu (JPN) 4.18; 6) Alessandro Causin (ITA) 4.95; 7) Oscar Domínguez Negreira (ESP) 6.48
Visual Impairment B2: 1) Koichiro Kobayashi (JPN) 1.73; 2) Masayoshi Idomoto (JPN) 1.73; 3) Simone Salvagnin (ITA) 2.45
Visual Impairment B3: 1) Ricardo Pérez Amado (ESP) 1.00; 2) Domingo Carretero Campon (ESP) 2.00
Lead – Donne
Amputee Arm Pd: 1) Paula De La Calle Pizarro (ESP) 1.00
Visual Impairment B1: 1) Rakhmanknlova Dilyara (RUS) 1.00; 2) Silvia Parente (ITA) 2.00
Visual Impairment B2: 1) Tatiana Panova (RUS) 1.00
Arthritis and Neurological Pd: 1) Valentyna Kurshakova (UKR) 1.00