Patagonia - El Corazon: 2nd ascent and onsight - Up-Climbing

Patagonia – El Corazon: 2nd ascent and onsight

Another great  ascent by the Belgian specialists Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva: the duo they managed the 2nd ascent and the onsight on the upper two-thirds of one of the most impressive route of Fitz Roy: El Corazon. 
 
Opened in February 1992 by the unforgettable Swiss Kaspar Ochsner and the Czech (naturalized Swiss) Michael Pitelka – both great explorers of the limestone massifs of the Bernese Alps – , the route is named after a characteristic  rock shaped like a heart, at the top.
 
It ‘s long 1250 meters – 40 pitches – and the difficulty of 6c and A4. Before the Swiss , the itinerary had been attempted, among others, by a team composed of Janez Skok, Ines Bozic, Glantar Zlate with the italian Ivo Kafol that in 1987 "besieged" the mountain for two months.
 
Favresse and Villanueva started around 7 am on East Pillar in order to avoid the pitches of the lower section that was wet, then – following an evidente snow ledge to the right – have come to El Corazon.
 
On the route have found a lot of gear including a bundle of fixed ropes left by their predecessors;  climbing no stop and both free,, reached the top at 11AM of the next day, overcoming difficulties up to 7b
 
They rappelled down on Royal Flush (7b and A1 Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Jörg Gerschel and Lutz Richter 1995). 
 
Sean Villanueva and Cintia Percivati, from Argentina have also managed the complete the first free ascent of Golden Eagle, on Aguja Desmochada, grading  the crux  5.12b.
Source: pataclimb.com

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