Slovenians on Fitz Roy - Up-Climbing

Slovenians on Fitz Roy

Slovenians Boris Lorenčič and Urban Ažman did the second repeat of the long and demanding route Tehuelche  on the north wall of Fitz Roy. The first repeat was done in 34 hours – 8\9th december 1996 – by the Argentinian Rolando Garibotti and the American Doug Byerly , who completed as well the itinerary up the top (the first ascenders had to stop at 100 metrs from the summit because of the bad weather coming).
Lorenčič and  Ažman arrived from Paso del Quadrado to the start at 7 AM of january 11, they climbed the route in 44 hours and did an hanging bivy 300 meters up the big ledge. The day after, they completed the itinerary (1300 meters 6b+ A2) summiting at 3 AM and descented in 8 hours. The two slovenians found an excellent rock and high difficulties, expecially in Diedro di Marco, an huge rocky corner with an offwidth crack. The name of the dihedral comes from the italian alpinist Marco Sterni who leaded in this section of the route. Tehuelche is a magnificent route, following a line logical and elegant, first climbed in january 1996 by the italians Marco Sterni, Mauro Petronio, Carlo Barbolini, Massimo Boni, Angelo Pozzi and Mauro Rontini.