Pietro Biagini: Easter’s surprises - Up-Climbing

Pietro Biagini: Easter’s surprises

As anticipated, Friday, April 4th, the young Pietro Biagini climbed Premiere, 8c in Castelbianco: he dedicated 11 attempts, the last one with an impressive speed, under the minute. Pietro is fit, he probably would have finished in less time but he wanted to "climb well," do the movements clean and precise, execute them quickly.
He assimilated the route so well that a few days later, in the day of Easter, he make even Last man, 8c /+, chaining between the first part of 8b of Fireman (also repeated by him and Elena Chiappa, FFA) and Premiere, the first repetition, after the recent Free Matteo Gambaro.
Two 8c in his pocket (one probably c+)for the 15 years old who expresses the desire "to climb well," which represents a value. What is Premiere? What are we talking about? Sometimes news of similar performance leave something ‘indifferent: a name, a number”, a history behind giving substance.
You have to go back in time, in 2000, when Dinda and Blond explored the crag of Castelbianco (CB for aficionados), developing the area following the rule of the "keep the high level". Premiere among them was the first contribution of  Gianni Duregato, his first bolting, a "premiere" in fact.
The line, however, proved to be more demanding of the other: not very extensive, very steep and mangy, many intense movements, one behind the other; Gianni dedicated himself initially, but then his interest turned away from CB.
For 13 years he went oblivion maybe because at the time there were few climbers of the caliber of Gianni, or maybe because it took over the resistance. Fashions change, the overall level has risen bad and the Association RocPennavaire began to come back to CB.
The last year Stefano Ghisolfi is moving to CB, seeking a project to measure himself and accidentally ends up on Premiere: some serious attempt and the second 8c of Val Pennavaire acquires identity.
Then follow the repetitions of Matteo Gambaro, Lorenzo Fornaro, Alberto Gotta and attempt to view the magnificent Adam Ondra, on a longer day which has stopped in the last taken before the chain . And finally, Pietro, the youngest of all, to his first 8c – consolidated a few days later with an 8c/+ -, in the crag of CB that stimulates him and opened the doors of a dimension by many dreamed.
 
 

Condividi: