Rosa Morotti and Tito Arosio opened "Via Noppa" on Bernina - Up-Climbing

Rosa Morotti and Tito Arosio opened “Via Noppa” on Bernina

Some day ago Rosa Morotti and Tito Arosio opened a new route on the N-W wall of the Scerscen, dedicated to Rosa’s partner, Norbert “Noppa” Joos, tragically disapperead the last summer during is mountian guide job on the Bernina Massif.

Text by Tito Arosio

Around an year ago I was at Tcherva Hut with Noppa, Rosa and a friend of them. I asked to Noppa if on the North-West wall of Scerscen there were some routes, he answered the he didn’t knew and he thought no, and at that poit I asked why a wall so apparent had no longer routes. He answer me  “let’s go!”.  About a year after we went there but without Noppa; unfortunately the last july Noppa had an accident on Bernina during is mountain guide job.

Rosa (his partner) and I, the last week, got back on the route and we had a long and beautiful day of alpine adventure on her home mountains, one of that Noppa liked most, high mountain, steep wall and classical difficulty never banaò for the wet and loose rock tipically of the Bernina Massif.

Probably the route wouldn’t be repeated, and I can understand that for the rock and the ambient. But this is only one example of how much the Bernina Massif can offer still today.


North-West wall of Capütschin da naiv/Schneehaube of piz Scerscen

Via Noppa” VI+ A1 550m

Rosa Morotti and Tito Arosio

gear piton, nuts, cams untill 3

on the route 4 pitons an a nut

the firts 300 meters are on 40° and III, than 8 pitches

Descent: from the peak go to piz Scerscen summit than descend from the ice nose