11 Jun Sardina news
A Maurizio Oviglia’s contribution about 3 new crags in Sardinia: soon available the new edition of Pietra di Luna, the guide book of the island.
In recent years, there have been so many new routes in Sardinia that the new edition of the guide-book of the island, Pietra di Luna, due out in a month, will have over 600 pages only on single-pitch routes
Among the most importants I report a new overhanging crag bolted last summer in Ulassai by Giampaolo Mocci and Maurizio Oviglia with the financial support of the City of Ulassai.
The area, called the "Cave of Dreams" is almost always on the shade, so perfect for summer and very nice in autumn.
The routes (fifteen) range from 6a + to 8a, the most difficult of them freed by Luca Giupponi. Topos of this sector are available at www.pietradiluna.com.
During the winter I devoted my self to the complete re-arrangement of the cliff of Villasimius. The place is beautiful, near the sea, the granite looks like ( not kidding!) to Cresciano.
The crag was a bit forgotten, but still offered significant opportunities for development, so after a reorganization of the old routes I start to open new ones. Proceeding to the right and it gets harder and the pitches are getting more interesting: a simple restyling has become so in the doubling of the routes, turning a semi-abandoned crag to a cool crag.
I got a lot of help from Andrea Mannias, who has freed the hardest (Hard Rock, 7c + / 8a), and lately from Paolo Contini. To be reported as the highlight is the 7c of Braille Trail, freed by me, that has a couple of movements with no hands! For this reason the route was dedicated to Johnny Dawes!
Now the cliff has about thirty routes, but there is still something to do, maybe in the next winter. It is not excluded, however, that you can climb even in the summer afternoons, combining rock-climbing and diving in a sea maybethe most famous in Europe. The topos will be published on the new edition of Pietra di Luna … but in the meantime, if you make your holidays in Villasimius, go check it out!
Between February and April was cleaned and bolted, however, also a new crag near Domusnovas, already known among the island’s most important climbing areas. This is in the right edge of the cliff area called Chinatown.
With the financial support of Perda Niedda (www.agriturismo-perdaniedda.com) which provided the gear, were born 10 long pitches (about 35 m) of beautiful limestone, bolted by Maurizio Oviglia and Cecilia Marchi. The new sector was named Broadway, difficulties ranging from 6a to 7b +: at 1PM goes into the shadow, so it is also suitable for summer afternoons
Topos on www.pietradiluna.com