23 Mar Sasha Di Giulian 8b+ onsight
Few days after her first 8c+, Sasha Di Giulian managed her first 8b+ onsight "Omaha beach" at Red River Gorge (Kentucky).
"Today I belayed Sasha on what was the first American female onsight ascent of the grade 8b+ (5.14a) – Omaha beach" – writes Magnus Midtboe on his blog – (…) "We left relatively early to go climbing today. After warming up on a 7c, Sasha decided to get on Omaha Beach. Since I had already done the route before, I knew where the crux was, and how it was like… on a beach (bulge), as the name suggests. She climbed very smoothly up to the crux, then stopped to recover and study the crux for a minute, before powering through it with lot´s of determination, as if she had done plenty of onsights at that level before"
Sasha is the first American woman on such difficulty onsight and likely the fifth on the world after Josune Bereziartu, Caroline Ciavaldini, Charlotte Durif and Maja Vidmar.
Source : Kairn Magnus Midtboe blog