12 Oct Jenny Lavarda first female repeat of “Solo per vecchi guerrieri…”8c+/9a
On October 5, after two months of attempts, the talented Italian climber Jenny Lavarda succeeded in the famous Solo per vecchi guerrieri"…,("For old warriors only…") a magnificent 4 pitches line (150 meters 7c, 7b+, 8b and 8c+/9a ) established by Manolo on 2006.
The route is without a doubt very demanding, the exposure mind boggling, the rock fantastic: “I was so fascinated since the first time when – in 2006 with Mauro Bubo Bole – I touched the holds of this route” – Jenny writes on her blog – “ together with my partner Marco we tried and tried again, searching for better solutions and then – on Monday – we fulfilled our dream..From every point of view, it has been a big trip, and I have searched inside myself, stretching both my physical and psychic limits."
"Then I was again sitting on the meadow, unbelieving to have linked together earth and heaven in an unique big breath: at this point the route, the grade, the fame become meaningless detail of our accomplished dream…"
Manolo established the route on June 2006 (the first 2 pitches alone) and freed it on August 2006.
On the same wall, he made FA of "Bisogna essere veloci per descrivere le nuvole" (5 pitches 8a + max 7c obl.).
Source: Jenny Lavarda web site