04 May Super Dolomites Eastern for Riegler brothers
High level family-mountaineering is very up-to-date at the moment, so after Germans Huber and Basque Pou brothers is now the turn of the South-tyrolers Riegler, Martin and florian, who climbed in 3 days two routes very peculiars for difficulty, exposition and protections: Caries at Dente in Sassolungo and Zauberlehrling at Cima Scotoni., both in Dolomites. Caries (7c traditional protections) was first ascended by Karl Unterkircher (recently died in Nanga Parbat) with Adam Holzknecht in 2003. The Riegler climbed it on sight on april 7th, climbing rotpunkt on april 11th the more difficult Zauberlehrling, masterpiece of Christoph Hainz and Oswald Celva, 750m. 7c+ traditional protections.
the route looks steep and difficult. the first few metres are brittle, then the rock gets better. tense and fully concentrated, we climb metre by metre. the hard winter’s training pays off and i manage all 8 pitches on sight.
we’d heard a lot about the extreme conditions on the renowned cima scotoni climb. far more challenging than the “fish route” on the marmolada, a real gem in the dolomites and one which has never been attempted as a rotpunkt climb since the first ascent 19 years ago. 11 april, 2009, 4.30am. we ski to the base. in the grey light of dawn, we check our equipment one last time. we discuss everything in detail and reduce our equipment to the bare minimum. we’re facing a 750-metre climb at grades 7, 8 and 9. it’s ice-cold and we climb like stiff robots. after 15 hours, my concentration starts to fail. i no longer feel anything, neither pain nor joy. i just keep on climbing. at around 10.30pm, we’re standing in deep snow. the summit, finally! we’re too tired to be happy and immediately start our descent. we reach the car at 1am. than we cook spaghetti and are finally able to take it in: we completed the “zauberlehrling” redpoint in one day.
Caries – Dente al Sasso Lungo
First ascent: Karl Unterkicher and Adam Holzknecht 2003
Zauberlehrling, Cima Scotoni
First ascent: Christoph Hainz and Oswald Celva 1990
First solo: Pietro Dal Prà
Grade: IX (7c+)