The secret passage - Up-Climbing

23 Oct The secret passage

Posted at 00:00h in Bouldering News by







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The 6 of October2008 Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva have completed a new free route on the far right side of El Capitan. The Secret Passage (5.13c R, 15 pitches) combines two existing routes to the right of the famous Zodiac;  generally,  the new route,  follows the first 10 pitches of Eagle’s Way (5.8 A3) and the last few pitches of Bad to the Bone (5.9+ A4).
 
The route is extremely steep, and so the climb is very sustained, with a total of 15 pitches (5.10+ R, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10+, 5.12a R, 5.13c R, 5.13a, 5.12+, 5.12c, 5.13c, 5.12c R, 5.13a, 5.13a, 5.11 R, 5-10+). They added a bolt on an unprotectable face-climbing variation to the established aid line, and placed a bolt next to a rivet to make an anchor safe. They were able to free-climb the rest without adding any holes in the rock. The nature of the climb is quite run-out and dangerous at sections. One pitch is protected with hooks and fixed copperheads.

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