10 Oct Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Belluno, Sunday 10th October 2010, from 18.00 on
Erik Švab, who has written with Giovanni Renzi a mountaineering and climbing guidebook reviewing one of the most renowned – and most iconic – Dolomites group, Tre Cime, will tell us epic deeds set on these mountains, through his ascents and a breath-taking slideshow.
Excerpt from the Foreword by Christoph Heinz:
It is obvious that the Tre Cime di Lavaredo deserve a guidebook of their own, since they are the Stars of the Dolomites. Moreover, so many routes have been opened on these monumental peaks, that it was quite easy to fill a whole book. Nowhere else you can find such a number of exceptional routes with so many different levels of difficulty.
Exactly 140 years ago, on 21 August 1869, Austrian alpinist Paul Grohmann, together with the guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher, reached the first and highest summit of Tre Cime. At that moment, the fortunate trio was as yet unaware of what would follow thei pioneering achievement. Infact, an international race began to conquer this fortress, which even to this day has no equivalent.
At the end of the Nineties with Kurt Astner, we took part in this race opening hard new routes on the North face of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, as well as on the South Face of Cima Piccola; routes which then went on to become extreme classics. Shortly afterwards, Mauro "Bubu" Bole attracted attention thanks to his first free ascents of old aid routes, while Alexander Huber took the climbing at levels of breathtaking difficulty, with the free ascent of Bellavista, the first 8c in the Alps, creating one of the most difficult route ever on rock. In this way, these powerful faces came back on th scene and became once more a major attraction for the world’s best climbers.
I wish all the readers to live this unique experience with the right amount of awareness and respect for these mountains, but above all to enjoy the ascents of this fantastic trinity!