Another chapter for the mythical Bokassa’s Fridge! - Up-Climbing

Another chapter for the mythical Bokassa’s Fridge!

Back in Kochel on the legendary line by Toni Lamprecht


Bokassa’s Fridge Assassin Monkey and Man is a name that surely many know and that identifies a mythical testpiece originally graded 8C+ and climbed in 2009 by the legendary Toni Lamprecht. This line is located on the Kochel limestone and is characterized by a very hard compressions on a prow which is partially eliminating (where it is mandatory to avoid the use the left face of the dihedral that this prow creates) and which ends at a good top hold without climbing on top of what is a crag with lots of bolted routes. It is therefore not a top line for purity and beauty, but it certainly remains a historical and world reference of great value as well as hardness.

It took 10 years for someone to get a first repeat, made in February 2019 by Christof Rauch and the next day by his friend Florian Schmalz. The fourth and so far last ascent was then due to Thomas Lindinger in November 2019.

These days, however (in particular the ascent dates back to 8 March) it was a hitherto little known boulderer who wrote a new chapter on Bokassa! Florian Wientjes, 25-year-old climber from Munich who has so far climbed up to 8B+ boulder, has been looking for a project close to home due to covid and in Kochel he has found it. Approaching Bokassa, as Florian explains on, he found the departure of Toni Lamprecht a bit random and decided to try the sit start, for a version never proposed before. In this version this line presents a total of 25 continuous moves without a particular crux, for an endurance battle that Florian has completed in a total of nine sessions, of which 5 to climb the original line and 4 for the sit version. .

Formally it is therefore a first ascent, with a difficulty that Wientjes proposes to be 8C/+ … the myth of Bokassa’s Fridge continues!

Above, the video of Florian’s ascent.