21 Sep Zauberberg (400 m 8a) freed by Riegler brothers

In June 2011 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler have freed  "Zauberberg" (Magic Mountain) the 400 meters route (15 pitches, 7-/A2) opened in May 2009 by alpine guides Stefan Comploi and Ivo Rabanser on the north wall of the Ciastel Chedul in Vallunga.
 
Florian was a couple of time “to have a look” to the wall  with Angelika Rainer, wondering if it was possible to climb free  the horizontal roof of 10 meters. "Once I had forgotten my climbing shoes and I tried a pitch and a half in sneakers, but then I rappelled , and I’d had enough of the Magic Mountain!"
 
Two years later, Florian was again back to the route partnered by his brother Martin, "the rock of the first pitch is fragile, the second is very demanding  and finally with some thrills we got to the roof." The redpoint has been postponed to the next day. The crux was alarmingly wet and big drops were falling  from the roof: at this point  Martin had the brilliant idea  to dry the holds with gas stove and that was the winning tip!
 
Once done  the crux, the rest of the climb took place in speed , considering the clouds gathering over their heads

These are the difficulty: 7 +, 8 + 9 / 10 -, 8 -, 6, 6, 7 -, 6, 6 -, 5, 7 -, 6, 6, 8 +, 4 + 
 
Source: site Riegler   Bergsteigen
Photo: www.mmarts.at