Episode 2 - The Classics: discovering the boulders that made history

The video series promoted by Mammut couldn't take us as in Bleau, to climb C'était demain together with Schubert and Stoehr

22 June 2017
A journey into the history of boulder sooner or later can only pass from here, from the most famous climbing forest, where the boulder was born before 1900.

Everything is history at Fontainebleau, the famous Angle Allain (1934, which we also see in the video above), La Marie Rose (1946), the Abattoir at C'était Demain, all the passages that opened a new level in this discipline. It is the block that Mammut, through the gestures and words of two illustrious athletes of his team, world champions Anna Stoehr and Jakob Schubert, celebrates in this second episode of The Classics.

We are in one of the most well-known areas of the forest, in Cuvier Rempart, just a handful of miles north of Fontainebleau, and here is the font icon, the mythical Jacky Godoffe, who liberated C'était demain, the first 8th of history!
It's hard to talk about a single block in a forest that stretches for dozens of miles and where there are tens of thousands of boulders present. The boulders really fond of this discipline know very well that as soon as they come here they find it difficult to focus on a single problem when there is so much to climb around, often following the beautiful circuits where each passage holds great satisfactions and surprises. Also because, in fact, history exudes from every corner.

It is also difficult for Schubert and Stoehr, so that between one attempt and another, we see them climbing other pearls near C'etait Demain ...

But let's go back to the latter. At the end of 1984 Godoffe succeeded in climbing this tricky passage labeled by the name of the same name as Bellamy's science fiction book, to symbolize a transition between the past and a future that in fact was not too late to manifest itself. In fact, from then on begins the golden age of the forest, where besides Godoffe, celebrated "bleausard" like Marc Le Mènestrel, Alain Ghersen, Jean-Baptiste Tribout, Olivier Carrièr and Jean-Pierre Bouvier give vent to their creativity and ability to create many of the boulder boulders in Bleau, often in open competition with each other.

In all this, C'ètait demain has resisted the charge over the years without ever being unpleasant and still does not count many repetitions. He devoted heavily to Adam Ondra's caliber, and, as we see in this video, Jakob Schubert and Anna Stoehr, the latter temporarily defeated the block. Its hardness goes hand in hand with its wonderfully essential essence: a single initial hard movement from the very first loose strands to take a reverse with the left hand, then to go out on an easier section. The essence of the boulder carved in its most magical rock.

But do not be afraid! If you still do not have the level to try this block, a host of others are waiting here and do not worry that the hardest thing is just to choose. Indeed, many of you will not even have to do it, because they will understand that any choice that takes only half a day under one pass is an insult to the passion for bouldering. Soon you will abandon crash pads and paratroopers and arm only with a toy, slippers, little magnesium and a toothbrush, you will start roaming rock in stone, losing in a complete fusion with the rock and the magic of this forest.

Albertaccia

 

Source: Mammoth

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