Poker of aces in bouldering!

Great ascents, including italian ones

31 August 2020
Flash news from England to Brazil, passing through Switzerland

 

After a very short period of calm, in the last few days a few bombs have exploded here and there in different parts of the globe!

Four days ago it was the English Aidan Roberts who explodes the first: at Shelter Stone in Trowbarrow, in the Lake District, this young and very strong climber sent one of the very few 8Cs in England, climbing the intense Outliers, announcing the first ascent on his Instagram profile.

A line perfectly in his style: small crimps with furious shoulder moves, which Aidan closed in two due to the inadequate temperatures, with two first sessions in which he was very far from making the first two hard moves. With the improvement of conditions, however, only a third was enough to solve the singles and close the line shortly after. This is his second 8C, while the first, always with a first ascent, was Railway in 2019 in the RMNP.

 

From Aidan Roberts to James Squire, another English climber who has climbed one of the very few 8Cs in the country (The World is Yours at Biblins Cave) in England.

James is traveling to Switzerland and on 25 August he had his magical moment precisely at Magic Wood: here he made the third ascent of Power of Now, the last 8C by Giuliano Cameroni then first repeated by Luca “Bazooka” Rinaldi. Squire sent this outstanding line in just one session, suggesting it could be 8B+.

 

Let's move now to Brazil, where, four days ago, the very strong Felipe Camargo (9b climber at the crag…) did his second 8C with the first repeat of Direct Hit on Ubatuba beach. This line was first ascended by Daniel Woods on his 2019 trip to the country and it is the direct variant of Fortaleza, the famous 8B+ climbed a few years ago by Camargo himself. On his Instagram profile, the video of the night ascent.

 

Finally, let's go back to Switzerland, to the Gotthard, under another popular masterpiece by Giuliano Cameroni. In fact, on Saturday it was Simone Tentori's turn on Hazel Grace: the strong climbers from Lecco needed only two short sessions to send this line, originally 8C and now graded 8B+. Also in this case, the news is taken from Simone's instagram profile.

 

News: Instagram

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