Another 8C for Niky!
Also La Rustica in Valle Bavona24 November 2020
Ceria again at the top in Ticino!
One week ago our Niky Ceria dropped the bomb with Ephyra (the 8C+ in Chironico), obtaining a result at the top of the world ... Today here we are again, talking about him again on the occasion of another amazing climb, this time in Valle Bavona: La Rustica!
Among the many gems of this valley in Ticino, La Rustica is one of the most beautiful and severe, an 8C masterpiece that bears the signature of Jimmy Webb. This overhanging edge is certainly among the hardest in Ticino, as proven by the very few climbs it has seen so far: after Webb it was in fact Nalle Hukkataival's turn, then Daniel Woods last year and Ceria in this autumn 2020.
Niky published the news on his Instagram profile and, as always, accompanied the photo with a detailed description of what this boulder meant for him, in his always deep and pure vision of bouldering. Here is his full story:
“The Island of Switzerland. I like the feeling I get when technology miserably fails in representing something. There is no video or image that is able to justify the beauty of this one! Today, It’s rare and precious to perceive a sense of surprise when reality is totally different from digital!
I was lucky. In March 2014 Jimmy @jwebxl showed me the way to this incredible piece of rock. Jimmy made the first ascent of La Rustica one year before (I guess) and I saw him re-climbing it in a couple of goes on that occasion. It was amazing to witness. Despite I couldn’t touch a couple of moves, I fell in love with the boulder.
Three sessions during the uncertain atmosphere of March 2020 weren’t enough to understand the technical bottom section. It was impossible.
Everything felt completely different a couple of weeks ago when I came back. Despite having a split on my left medium finger, my body felt actually way more into the flow: some little improvements of my limited flexibility between index and thumb changed all the angles of my joints! Once the split was recovered, everything was in the good position at the right time and I managed to climb what can be one of the most important boulders I have repeated so far. (some tall ones are excluded :) )
It rarely happens to be attracted and feel deeply connected to something that has already been developed like in this case. At least to me. Certainly not because the boulders I found are better, but differently because the whole process includes many enjoyable moments which make the entire experience a different thing.
La Rustica is the proper example of exception. I did enjoy every single instant on it, despite having only climbed it. And as with all the best love stories, it also feels a bit sad now that it’s “over”... I’ll hardly forget this one!”