A great debut for Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi!
No Kpote Only in Bleau05 May 2022
The 17-year-old Ukrainian climber enters the world of the 8C with one of the hardest lines in the forest
No Kpote Only, the second 9A bouldering proposal in the world after Burden of Dreams!
In January 2019, it was Charles Albert who climbed (barefoot) this line at the Rocher Brulé and proposed this difficulty. Three months later, the Japanese Ryohei Kameyama was the first repeater in a few attempts and timidly proposed a slight downgrade to 8C+/9A. More than a year passed before Nico Pelorson managed to get the repeat in October 2020 and, with the new beta he found, he even suggested a downgrade to 8C. In any case and despite the unpleasant appearance of the boulder on which it is located, No Kpote Only is one of Bleau's most challenging lines, especially if you are looking for the first 8C in your career.
However, Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, a young Ukrainian climber of only 17 who can already boast four 9a routes in her career, did not think about it. Ilya, who had so far only climbed one 8B + as a maximum in bouldering, felt at ease on this very intense line and did the fourth ascent, reaching a new difficulty in his career and showing a level that is still to be expressed. Above the uncut video of the ascent.
A new potential climbing star!