Melloblocco 2017 - Event Diary
This year too, Melloblocco has been successful. Alberto Albertaccia Milani tells the most significant moments of the boulder event par excellence.15 May 2017
Once again, as well as between expectations and enthusiasm, the Melloblocco closed between fingers, so much healthful exhaustion and many emotions.
It looked like a damn year: first the political struggles came up with the intent of blocking a manifestation that, after 13 editions, seems to have no boundaries or tiredness; Then the inclement weather, which seemed to leave only a few fine windows in the four days of rally. The bad predictions have certainly deterred somebody from starting, especially from afar, but all in all, the influx of valley escalators has been up to previous editions, with the usual stuff in the premises, car parks, meadows, but above all boulders!
In addition to the climbers' people, these editions have re-confirmed the 360-degree growth that rock climbing has been known in recent years, with the presence of many (even new) sponsors, increasingly professional media such as Climbing Radio (which celebrated here Her first birthday) and EpicTV; These are collateral initiatives that have also absolutely enriched the event and the great novelty of this year, the Italian Boulder Championship organized by the FASI (Italian Football Climbing Federation).
This latest novel in particular has a profound meaning for our sport and has symbolized a rapprochement between two realities, the indoor and outdoor competition that, after being born together with Bardonecchia in 1985, have become increasingly separate, Both in the modes, in the values and in the spirit. The match at Melloblocco had a triumphal outcome, with a fought race and many spectators to support athletes.
Let's just start here our trip to the Melloblock. Despite the lack of rain in Friday's day and the chance to climb to the valley bays, however, there were many boys and girls who in the qualifications faced to gain the few available positions to go with the prequalified, In the semifinals on Saturday morning. From the semi-finals, only six men and six women have spotted him: Gabriele Moroni, Riccio Piazza, Michael Piccolruaz, Marcello Bombardi, Matteo Manzoni and Filip Schenk among the boys. While in the women's field they had the best Andrea Ebner, Miriam Fogu, Camilla Moroni, Annalisa De Marco, Laura Rogora and Giorgia Tesio among the girls waited late in the afternoon on Saturday for the final. Just after the beautiful sunny day and rock on Saturday and before the big evening party, these twelve athletes went on stage on the ad hoc structure for the event to earn the title title of Italian Champion. This year's title is Michael Piccolruaz and Giorgia Tesio, followed by an increasingly strong and promising Matteo Manzoni in second place and Riccardo Piazza in third, while Andrea Ebner and Camilla Moroni complete the women's podium.
From the novelty of the Italian Championship we come back to the great show that the Melloblocco offers all the years, with the race blocks drawn by the team led by Simone Pedeferri, who also this year pulled out of the cylinder of superb lines as well as difficult. It is on these lines that many of the world's greatest boulders have faced, and this year they saw Alex Megos, Jorg Verhoeven and Melloblocco's Anthony Gullsten habit as men, in addition to Barbara Zangerl's stratosphere dominance women. Already at dawn on Sunday, Barbara Zangerl seemed to be on a different planet, with eleven blocked twelve blocks of which you are the only one to grow. Behind him Lara Neumeier and Madeleine Eppeinsteiner with five and four steps respectively. On Sunday, Barbara failed to win the last block, but ended in the first position, while Lara Neumeier took seven blocks and went on to win the second place.
In the male field, however, the games were open until the last, and the judges had their best to do. Arrived at the last day are the three athletes mentioned above to win the victory. Gullsten temporarily drives the standings with eleven blocks on the twelve available and a day to try El Pulpo Negro (M) in the Collinetta field, a block that Simone has rated 8b + / 8c and for which Megos seems to be the closest to realization.
It is the German who follows Gullsten in the temporary classification with ten blocks but unfortunately just the last day he is forced to surrender, having to leave the race field one day in advance and a bad finger. Jorg Verhoeven, with 9 blocks, remains temporarily in third place. In addition to El Pulpo Negro, the Green Team (N) block, closed only by Gullsten (until Sunday morning) could make a difference, thanks to its proximity to the Multifunctional Center. In addition, Verhoeven has not yet closed Snakes Bite (Q) in the Field Sports field, where Megos and Gullsten have gone up. There are many premises for possible last-minute scenes. And so it was! The absence of Megos on Sundays and the really high difficulty of El Pulpo Negro leave the German and Gullsten to the finish on Saturday evening, while Verhoeven grinds again, taking home the blocks N and Q and then joining Gullsten in First position. The final standings then see Anthony Gullsten and Jorg Verhoeven at parimerito, followed by Alex Megos.
It should also be noted that the best Italian performance is that of Stefano Carnati who, despite his participation in the Italian Championship that kept him out of the games for a couple of days, succeeded in closing eight of the twelve racing blocks.
Interviewing Climbing Radio's microphones at the end of the race, Simone Pedeferri expressed all her great satisfaction as the blocks were really appreciated by the boulders for their beauty, so that for many big ones the hustle and bustle has been dictated more From the love of these lines carved in the rock rather than the ranking itself, which in Melloblocco has always had a relative importance, however.
This was the greatest gratification for Simone and her team, and the incarnation of the free spirit of the boulder where it is the passion for climbing in itself, for the aesthetics of the gesture and for the natural context to give the most meaning Deep in such events as this
Another success story, another year has passed. We just have to wait another twelve months, making sure we're back here!