Quoi de Neuf for Jan Hojer

The Long roof in the Orsay area in Bleau and the video of the ascent by Jan

22 November 2017

Since a few times we know that Jan Hojer is one of the strongest and most complete climbers in the world and his last ascent is another confirmation for this.

In Orsay, at the extreme boundaries of the Fontainebleau area, Jan solved the 30 moves on the roof of Quoi de Neuf, a connection of 8C of two lines and climbed the first time in 2008 by Remy Bergasse but repeated only seven years later by Seb Bouin and Alban Levier.
After flashing the second part of 8B two years ago, Jan came back to close his fight with the complete version, as shown in the video.
These are his comments on his facebook's profile:

Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance. I had high hopes, coming off a couple months of lead training this time!
It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start.
I got through the first part efficiently and felt much better compared to my first session! I tried to stay as calm as possible and somehow kept it together throughout the second part!”

 

Fonte: onbouldering.com

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