Gabriele Moroni does the second ascent of “The Ghost Ship”

The unrepeated 8B+ by Niky Ceria in Champorcher

07 September 2018
Another great ascent for Gabri, to which he adds an 8B + to Magic Wood.


Gabriele Moroni this year is in very good shape as demonstrated from what he has achieved in recent months, from the victory in the World Cup to the very rapid repetition of Highlander, the 8C of Sustenpass.

Now comes another really great result on rock!

The Ghost Ship is an incredible and so far unrepeated 8B + line climbed by Niky Ceria in Champorcher in 2013 and that Gabri has tried several times. As he will tell us below, his battle was complex but eventually lead to the second repetition of one of the most difficult boulders in Italy. Above we also see the video of the ascent, which took place on the first of September.

In addition, a few days later, Gabriele also repeated Mystic Stylez, 8B + by Magic Wood.


Here is his story on "The Ghost Ship" as reported in Instagram:

 “THE GHOST SHIP 8B+(?)...

I cannot even count how many times I’ve been standing under this intimidating freestanding boulder and staring at the line with disbelief...

I remember I was utterly impressed when @niky_ceria claimed the first ascent in May of 2013. I saw him trying some days before he did it... the moves looked savage, bad hand holds, even worse feet, crazy tension and huge spans!

In the next years I briefly tried it a couple of times to see if I had a chance but I couldn’t actually do any of the hardest moves. I always put it aside calling it too hard and morpho.

This season, after doing the first ascent of one of the last great projects of the area, Deuxième Jeunesse 8b, I decided to give myself another chance on The Ghost Ship...

With the help of a rope and a ladder, I finally figured out a way to avoid the huge last span move using two very bad underclings and doing a shorter, but still at my reach limit, throw to the lip (in the picture from @valdo_chilese).

Last saturday, in between two rain showers, I fought my way to the top of this majestic problem, getting the 2nd ascent!

For sure it wouldn’t be possible without the massive support I got from @emanuelegex @lorepuri @valdo_chilese and @rikitotomonetta ! Thanks guys!

Now, I am finishing the preparation for the upcoming World Championships @innsbruck2018, feelings are good and I can’t wait to compete again!...”


Fonte: instagram/facebook

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