Giani Clement sends a new 8C/+ in Magic Wood
…and Marine Thevenet conquers her third 8B in Gottardo!10 August 2020
The latest top sends in the famous Swiss areas
“With the first ascent of Stil Vor Talent I'm fulfilling a huge dream - a dream that has been very present in my life over the past weeks.…”. These are some of the words with which Giani Clement describes his ascent of Stil Vor Talent, a new extreme boulder that the Swiss climber sent in Magic Mood.
In his instagram post we find a detailed description of this line, which, as Giani himself says, is difficult to consider a boulder but it is more like a route, considering the length and number of moves! Clement has in fact found a more direct version of the very long La grosse Tarlouze (which he climbed in November), a line that starts from Never Ending Story 1 + 2 and then continues to the left again, managing to exit at the top of the boulder without needing a rope .
To avoid the descent on the slopers-rail of La Grosse Tarlouze, Giani found a straight variant of two movements characterized by a very hard shoulder move followed by a dyno and he started working on the entire connection since May.
With the success achieved a couple of days ago, not only he climbed his hardest line so far, but also gives a new 8C/+ to Magic Wood!
From Averstal we now move to the Gotthard where Marine Thevenet did the first female ascent of the 8B of Kingda Ka, the third problem of this difficulty in her palmares. This line brings the signature of Giuliano Cameroni who, at the time of the first ascent in 2011, was only 13 years old!