Gioia also for Elias Iagnemma!!!
The fifth ascent of the first 8C+ in the world22 February 2021
The strong climber from Abruzzo sends the masterpiece by Christian Core
Another great news from Varazze, to celebrate Italian bouldering again with the ascent of a line that has been at the top of the world for years!
We are clearly talking about Gioia, the legendary boulder problem sent by Christian Core in 2008 and the first 8C+ in the history of bouldering. After the two repeats by Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival in the almost 13 years since the first ascent, the last three months have seen two more, both by italian top climbers: in December it was Niky Ceria who did the fourth ascent. while now it's the turn of another guy who in the last times has been making Italian bouldering fly at the highest level: Elias Iagnemma!
Elias has in fact announced the repetition of Gioia from his Instagram page, an exploit dating back to February 14 but so far kept confidential. In fact, this climb had been in the air for some time: after his trip in Ticino this autumn, Iagnemma had already stopped a few days in Varazze to attempt Gioia, and the attempts were already excellent, only stopped by bad conditions...
So, just a matter of time! The inevitable return to Varazze at the first opportunity, with the highest power and motivation to write his name on one of the hardest and most known lines in the world!
After the hard work, finally the send, and Elias Iagnemma becomes the fifth climber of this icon of modern bouldering. In this regard, we report his first comment below, as reported in his Instagram post, where he also proposed a grade of 8C/+ with the kneepad beta that he adopted:
"Yes, it's all true, I waited several days to realized what happened and yes; I did the 5th ascent of “Gioia” F.A by Christian Core in 2008. It was a tough fight but in the end, as always, with a lot of sacrifice and dedication I managed to win even this battle.
The process was exhausting because it is almost impossible to find decent weather conditions in Varazze: in fact, after fell at the last move, then I had to wait other 15 days to have the good day, paying it at the price of renounce, after several years for the first time, at one stage of the Italian bouldering cup. For me it was hard to give up the competition but in that moment was the thing I wanted most and that made me feel better. For the first section of the boulder I used the knee pads which transforms an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one. Among the 8c that I have climbed, this boulder remains far more difficult, despite the new beta cause it requires a mix of power, precision and above all power endurance, which is a key factor since the total difficulty of the line is determined by keep an high level of strenght during all the climb together with a steady brain. I believe the right grade could be 8c/+.
Uncut video of the sent will be released on the Mellow you tube channel this wednesday and later will be released even a longer video which show the entire process behind this boulder and the other problems ticked in Varazze. Thanks Simone Antuzzi without you this would not have been possible.”
Let’s then wait for the video of this exceptional result, which once again brings the Italian bouldering protagonist, both for the line and for the climber!