La Force, 8C+ trav, for Camille Coudert

Great ascent for a new top climber of world bouldering!

08 May 2019
Great ascent on the Orsay roof!

 

La Force is another king line that runs on the Orsay roof, at the boundaries of the Bleau area, connecting the 7C + and 8B of the famous Quoi de Neuf, 8C. Compared to the latter, La Force is an harder version, in which a more demanding left exit is added to the original.

First climbed by Alban Levier in 2016 and graded as a 9a route, its thirty moves have now been climbed by a bleausard unknown outside the Forest: Camille Coudert! With this exceptional climb, Camille skips all the steps and is projected directly by the 8B at the highest levels of bouldering.

 

Here's what he tells us about La Force:

"The boulder is 7C+/8A and 8B to 7C finish, with a good rest between 8A and 8B. it is about 35 moves long so it is hard to give the whole line a boulder grade. A 9a route grade has also been suggested but in comparison to existing trav grades 8C+ would fit.

I started working on La Force seriously a month ago. I needed five sessions to take it down. It is my biggest achievement so far in a style I'm not used to work on (a long effort being a boulderer). I think this problem cannot be considered as a route or a boulder. It is something in between that's why I think the 8C+ traverse grading is more appropriate."

 

Above you can see the video of the ascent, which took place after an attempt in which Camille fell on the last move.

On the grimper.com website you can also find a more extensive interview, to learn more about this new name of world bouldering.

 

Source: 8a.nu / grimper.com

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