Niky great in Chironico!!!
The first repeat of Ephyra, 8C+16 November 2020
An ascent at the world top for the stratospheric boulderer from Biella
An exceptional flash news from the Chironico gneiss, starring our strongest and most charismatic boulderer: Niky Ceria!
For a few weeks Niccolò has been in Ticino… and inevitably something big would have come soon!
Here we are: Niky sent Ephyra, and it is the first repeat of this 8C+ first climbed in 2019 by Jimmy Webb and which runs to the left of the famous From Dirt Grows the Flowers. Just to get an idea, we can see the first ascent of Webb in the video we published in the news at this link.
Ceria announced the climb a few hours ago from his Instagram profile, where he commented:
“My first session on this line dates back to 2014. Since that day, the left face project entranced me more than 'From Dirt Grows the Flowers' (personal tastes I suppose..) so I found logical to follow my instinct, despite the first intro move seemed to be out of reach. I was together with Jimmy on that occasion and we had a good time trying to understand what the hell was better to do to make some progress.
That was my last time in Schattental unfortunately (time really flies), but I knew that one day I would have come back: I was intrigued by the shapes of the crimps and, mostly, by the quality of the climb: it deals of some long and shoulder moves that have to be balanced with a proper amount of tension, power and precision. But there is also a tricky and spicy top section, which is better to not underestimate, that made this project full package! I was enthusiastic to hear that Jimmy took it down a couple of seasons ago with an impressive vision! I might be wrong, but I think I read somewhere that this was a very long standing project of Chironico; Nowadays it's better known as Ephyra.
Despite having visited Chironico loads of times in my life, there are several lines I still wish to climb (mostly because they are very connected to my past and my first rock climbing days) but in addition to being quite hard for me, they are also sharp. The comfortable holds of Ephyra, plus the mild temperatures of November, made this boulder the proper choice for the last days. It was a satisfying feeling connecting these moves together and visualizing my body doing something that was almost impossible when vision was more limited.”
The character and depth of Niky's approach to bouldering is a well-known thing and of great value, and results like these are just a further confirmation of his being one of the stars of world bouldering!