No Kapote Only for Charles Albert: the second 9a boulder in the world!!!
The barefoot Mowgli proposes the 9a for the last extreme line that he sent in Bleau18 January 2019
From his website, the magazine Grimper announces that Charles Albert has sent in Fontainebleau the second 9a boulder in the world, as always barefoot ...
An extraordinary news that is a bolt from the blue! The second world 9A boulder!
We don't know too much about No Kapote Only, the last line that Charles Albert has climbed in Bleau and for which he proposed the 9A, the second boulder of this grade in the world after Burden of Dreams of Hukkataival. All the details and an exclusive interview will be in the next number of the French magazine Grimper.
A few more details appear on fanatic-climbing.com.
No Kapote Only is a line of about ten movements that runs on a marked overhang located in the sector of Rocher Brûlé on the boulder of La Roche à Claude. Lots of controversy followed the cleaning of this boulder: in 2011, the openers has in fact destroyed an ancient nineteenth-century shelter to be able to climb on this rock. Moreover, in 2017, the boulder was painted by spray and some holds were hammered...
Charles Albert describes it this way:
“No Kapote only” is a sitstart. It starts in the 8B located on the left-hand side of the boulder, climbing a crack. You have 3 traverse moves around 8A+ followed by 2 extremely hard moves before reaching the underclings that are the stand start of “Gaia” 7C. You need to take a crimp with left hand to go to a good right hold, before doing a foot-hand match and a dyno in a far two-finger pocket again with the right hand. Then you need to cross in the underclings of the stand start of “Gaia” and finish on it. Except for the 2 extreme moves, the holds have been hammered but it’s not too uncomfortable to climb.”
The video above shows also some past attempts by Charles on this line (at aboutl 6 minutes and half).
After some first ascents of 8C, after "La révolutionnaire" and "Hypothèse assis" proposed as 8C +, No Kapote Only is the natural "next step" for Albert.
Of course, there is always the unknown linked to his emblematic style: in fact, Charles sent all these lines barefoot and, given this particularity, all the extreme blocks he has opened have a high level of subjectivity, both in climbing and in the proposed grade.
Less pleasant is the fact that the boulder on which he climbed No Kapote Only is a negative symbol of the ethical degeneration of boulder: holds hammered, painted rock and, above all, ruins of historical and cultural importance destroyed by the first openers just to have another boulder to climb among the thousands and thousands of Bleau. Despite the very high level and boulder vision, the charisma and this extraordinary ascent by Charles, these unpleasant details bring this line a bit far from the purity and essentiality that is found for Burden of Dreams ...
To learn more about it we just have to buy the latest number of Grimper, where we can find an exclusive interview with Charles.
news: Grimper.com / fanatic-climbing.com