First repeat of Twiga by Gabriele Moroni
The hard line recently climbed by Niky Ceria in Val d’Aosta.14 March 2019
Gabry sends this and other new lines at Fontainemore.
Just a few weeks ago we published an extensive interview with Niccolò Ceria about his latest first ascents in home areas. Among these, Twiga, located in a "cave" in Fontainemore, one of the two projects that Niky climbed recently, years after the first discovery.
We had no doubts that it was a very hard line, and the confirmation comes from Gabriele Moroni, who few days ago did the first repetition in several days of effort. After repeating also Undercut, 8B, Moroni dedicated himself to Twiga, which in his opinion would be a pretty tough 8B+.
On his Instagram page we can see the video of the ascent, together with the comments reported below:
“I remember checking out this cave a few years ago with Niki Ceria right after he found it. Sat in a river bed, and suffering floods, Niky named the spot the “muddy cave” because of the nature of the floor...This winter has been a very dry one making the cave a bit more confortable to stay into.
At the end of January Niky finished the last project, the main mega line, calling it Twiga.
I went back to the cave a few weeks ago and I immediately got hooked by the quality of the problems. On my first two days I focused my attention on the two “easier” ones, Fake Class 8a and Undercut 8b but already had a couple of sessions on the harder one as well.
Twiga finally took me three more days of effort before sending it last Saturday, on a perfect dry and breezy day!
I feel that, on this style, short and burly, it’s one of the hardest problems I’ve ever climbed... super powerful, tensiony and intricate! About the grade, Niky has not given one like he used to do lately, but for me it felt a notch harder than almost every 8b+ I managed to climb in the last year...”